exposure, which is set at 6 seconds
Woah, don’t know if this could be causing your problem, but this seems really high. I used to used a Mono X, highest exposure time would be in the 3s range. Are you maybe printing at reduced brightness?
exposure, which is set at 6 seconds
Woah, don’t know if this could be causing your problem, but this seems really high. I used to used a Mono X, highest exposure time would be in the 3s range. Are you maybe printing at reduced brightness?
Your printer has the hidden ability of being able to melt plastic 😉
I’m also confused by what you’re trying to do. When you say you found “the step file for a generic filament slicer”, what is the model actually of? When you say “combine the two”, what do you mean? Are these two parts that fit together that you want to make one model, is it two separate things that you just want attached as one piece, are they two variations of the same thing that you want parts of one on the other, etc…
Couple days late, but I just remembered this post and dug it back up to make a suggestion if you (or anyone else) decide to remix it with the charging slot, to help retain the model’s excellent printability.
Cutting a squared notch will create a steep overhang that will be difficult to print. But, if you instead cut a large circular hole through the bottom center, it will create a shallow taper that will be easier to accomplish, it will also cut down on filament usage 😃
If you posted this on Thingiverse, someone in the comments would complain about the supports being too hard to remove and the model being oriented the wrong way.
they mean that it comes already too moist from the factory?
It certainly can be. PETG LOVES water in my experience and there’s only so much that can be controlled.
On the rare occasion I have to use PETG I usually just accept that it’s gonna be poppy unless I put the spool in with my chicken tendies.
Double check the settings in your printer and slicer that “screen brightness”, “screen power”, “max power” or something to that effect is set to 100%. I’ve seen some default to 70%-80%, the theoretical reason being that reducing power to the screen can lengthen its lifespan… however, afaik these claims have not been backed up by data, and the logical counterargument is that any lifespan gains will be offset by the increased length of time the screen is on. Even if you can squeeze a few extra prints out of the screen before it dies, you’re making all your prints take way longer than necessary.
For reference, this is the recommended printing settings chart provided by anycubic for their standard gray resin; the recommended exposure time for your printer at default layer height is 2.5 seconds. If you’re using 100% power, you’re more than doubling the normalexposure.