This was my thought as well. It seems you could use the G36 of your choice as the base and bodge on the upper rail, stock, and so forth.

I will say this, though, if OP is worried about the finish quality of the external parts: Getting a factory looking finish on those big plastic pieces is going to be very difficult with 3D printed parts and require a ton of postprocessing.

There is one, but it’s not very active.

!airsoft@lemmy.world

I posted my Luger to it a while ago. I should probably post more, but there are always other projects. Alas.

At the height of the curved TV fad I had salespeople trying to insist to me that this somehow improved the available viewing angles throughout the room. Oh yeah? Then how come they’re not convex, then?

Given that the battery in the Frame is not readily swappable, that’s your only choice. I’m already on it, of course.

There’s a Virtual Boy emulator for VR headsets, too.

Well.

Via PBF.

You can move the main center window and the dashboard bar by grabbing the long skinny horizontal stripe beneath either them, same as moving any other floating window. Unless you hit “float in world” on the center window the dashboard/taskbar/clock will remain pinned to the bottom of it.

The inverse L shaped grab handle on the lower right of any window allows you to resize it. When you are holding it, pushing the analog stick forward or back will move it closer to you or farther away.

Word on the street is that you can use FrameDrop to put .apks (and other executables) into your Frame’s library. I haven’t had occasion to try it; my main interest in onboard software has been regular productivity-ish apps that run natively in Linux. I stream actual games from my desktop PC, which is approximately three million times more powerful than the Frame itself.

It turns out there really is a market for a standalone capable wireless headset provided that it actually respects your privacy.

And all the joy of also being a small Linux computer, still with the eyeballs thing. Hit “desktop” in the hotbar on the bottom and you’re looking at a KDE environment.

Most programs can also be opened into a separate full-screen styled floating window you can stick wherever in virtual space, independent of the base desktop.

Correct, the only idiotic thing about VR is buying your hardware from Mark Zuckerberg. As the folks in the VR community here are already aware, I got my Steam Frame the other day and basically the only reason I’ve had to take it off my face since then is because the thing has a finite battery life.

I rather suspect that if you use on it the wall will drop down briefly and allow yourself to elevator up to the upper surface where the trees and all are.

Meta.

You can extract the chip’s serial number in software trivially. In Windows, from a commandline:

wmic cpu get pricessorid

I’m positive you can do the same with some Linux command, and failing that certainly with basically every vaguely modern benchmarking tool. Same deal with hard drives and probably also video cards. My BIOS/UEFI even enumerates all my connected hard drive serial numbers on screen if I interrupt its graphical boot screen.

Given that the anti-cheat schemes these competitive games are literal rootkits, I don’t think gathering the user’s hardware serial numbers in order to attempt identify them is much of a stretch.

Well, obviously. But it certainly feels that way, given that Three Kingdoms era period drama is one of the apparently two or three things the CCCP censorship authority or whoever is in charge over there approves of. So it’s an obvious and lately rather overused safe choice if you’re going to make a domestic Chinese production.

If that’s all you’re doing you can probably get away with belts. The laser engraving, for sure. Most of the commercial diode laser options are already belt driven.

All of Chinese fiction: Hey ho, hey ho, it’s off to the Three Kingdoms era we go. Again!

A CNC for what, milling? If so, I agree with the others here. Using belts to drive a milling machine is likely to result in too much backlash to be viable. The entire point of ballscrews is that they’re (reasonably) proof against backlash, even moreso than regular lead screws. We can get away with it on our printers because in normal operation the print head and nozzle are never supposed to touch anything so it doesn’t matter. For milling, backlash in your movement system will cause your tool to kick itself off of the workpiece when its edges touch it (i.e. hundreds/thousands of times per minute) which will make it chatter, result in lousy finishes and accuracy on your parts at best, and most likely wind up with you breaking a lot of bits.

Maybe you could get away with it if all you’re doing it routering wood, or something. The moment metal enters the equation, forget it.

The key to milling is rigidity, rigidity, rigidity. If you are having chatter problems, accuracy problems, tool breakage problems, basically any kind of problem, nine times out of ten you’ll wind up tracing it back to backlash and/or your machine or clamping arrangement not being rigid enough in some capacity.

I’m sensing a pattern, here.

You can do this with most Lamy pens, too, which is where I wound up apparently by sheer happenstance. Do I have a $12 steel nib shoved into my Dialog right now beacuse Reasons? Why, yes I do. (If I sold its stock nib, which is currently safely tucked away in a box, I could probably use that to finance four or five new pens.)