This is kind of what I know from my experience. I have an A1 Mini with AMS lite and my trusty 5 year old Prusa Mk3s running Klipper. Not exactly the same, but close.

Mechanically, the linear rails vs the linear rods are more rigid and lead better overall printer rigidity than the more flexible linear rods. Is it enough to matter? With input shaping easily available on both printers, not really. But, those rails will require a bit more maintenance than the rods. My mini regularly prompts for cleaning and re-lubricating every so many hours of run time. Is it hard? Nope, but it IS something Bambu really recommends. The linear rod bearings are supposed to be greased before installation, (whether Soval does this or not is a question. Prusa didn’t bother with my kit), And because the rod bearings have wiper seals to keep the dust out and the grease in, a quick wipe with a clean dry paper towel is all that’s needed. No exterior lubrication required.

The AMS Lite is kind of nice, it keeps 4 spools of filament ready to go. And I keep 4 different colors ready or a spool to run out and then take advantage of being able to easily swap to another spool mid print and keep printing. I have done just enough multi-color prints to say I know how. Mostly just signage though. And it’s very wasteful as a rule. The RFID tags identification and setup isn’t worth the extra cost I need to pay vs the “generic” filaments I buy. I am not so unskilled or lazy to set up my own profiles quickly and easily. And the few spools of Bambu filament I have used has demonstrated it’s no better than any of the small handful cheaper brands I normally use. This is a YMMV situation. The Soval does not offer a builtin solution for the AMS, but some few more universal 3rd party units are now starting to come on the market.

Another “this may or may not matter to you” is that Bambu runs on legacy Marlin and the Soval runs on Klipper. Adding things to Bambu’s version of Marlin while doable, is a pain in the butt. Not much information is available on their version. For example, I wanted to turn off the input shaping at the start of every print. It’s noisy and not needed for every print. It took me a couple of weeks to find and learn to edit the intro macro to achieve my goal. Klipper is far, far easier to edit and make changes in. And you can access things like Obico for Klipper to monitor prints for spaghetti detection-- which Bambu cannot do. You can also more easily ignore a region if a plate full of models has one model fail at some point. Bambu requires the Handy app and you need to be logged into Bambu to use it I think. Studio offers no such functionality on the desktop.

The TL;DR: Your choice depends on what YOU want from your printer. It’s a YMMV all the way down. I do not regret my purchase of the Mini, but I won’t ever be buying another Bambu. But that’s just me.

Infills over 10 to 15 percent get you very little increase in strength. It’s not until you get to the sweet spot of 80-85 percent infill rates do you get a real boost in strength. Then above about 85% the gains again taper off dramatically all the way to 100% infill. Otherwise you are merely wasting filament and money to just feel good. If you need more strength, add more perimeters and tops and bottoms.

I would use a .60mm nozzle, PETG or PLA will work just fine, 4 perimeters, and 4 top and bottom layers. And either 10% cubic or gyroid infill. That should create a part that will last for years.

Have I got a D9 Cat waiting for you! Drive with those twin brake levers 10 to 14 hours a day! You will get to dig ditches and level whole mountains!

Edit to add: And drink Red Bull and eat Honey Buns while doing it too!

Nah, Tarballs are delicious!

Compiling is only needed to solve dependencies when you get caught in rpm hell.

And there is little reason to do input shaping on the start of every print unless you change the mass of the moving parts by a noticeable amount. And even then, it does nothing once the print starts. You get what you get anyway when the print is finished.

What would be better is if a printer could measure and adapt to the changing resonances as the printer was printing. But I suspect that ain’t going to happen anytime soon due the complexity and the ultimate question: “How good does good enough really need to be.”

Only if the lock isn’t worn or dirty on the inside. I wouldn’t trust this for any outdoor lock or older lock. Even cheap locks with poor fit and finish causing rough operation would not be a good idea. This is a fun gimmick that could easily cost you more money than it’s worth.

The only way I might use it is if I were to use the 3D printed key as a pattern to cast a metal one. And I ain’t got time for that.

I think those linear rods and bearing are the weak part of the system. They are too prone to vibrations and whipping around at high speeds. But I’m too lazy to go after more upgrades on my printer at this point.

I do have a standard flow .60mm ObXidian for abrasive filament, but they were a LOT cheaper then. Plus I already have a lot of brass Revo nozzles already. But…I want.

It could be a fun project for the kids. A bit of googling should get you more information on different brands printers too. Plus all the open source projects available to do mods and accessories that can require some basic to moderate programming skills to be learned.

I know how hard it can be to kids to have enough fun to learn about how to use technology. I spent a few years teaching CAD and 3D printing to kids in school. I also tried to get the machine shop up and running again. But the school would not allow it.

If you open Bambu Studio, and click on the edit box to the right of you machine type and look at the first tab under Basic Settings, and in the Advanced section, its says G-Code flavor-- Marlin(legacy). Now, don’t mistake that for the firmware they use.

Your Bear mod will be a lot different than my stock frame and E3D Revo V6 hotend. The profiles I have been using are based on what I think I can get away with from what I learned about from the input shaping. I think you can get away with a bit more than I can. Particularly if you went from the 8mm linear rods to a set of linear rails. That would be far more rigid and vibration damping along with the heavier frame. Did you go with a high flow extruder too? I’ve been debating on a .40mm Revo ObXidian high flow nozzle lately. But The cost is high even for the Revo eco-system.

Yes, Prusa runs on Marlin which isn’t a bad thing, but so does Bambu printers.

Klipper does a few things for me.

1. Klipper allows for a lot of customization if you want it. Everything is a text file. And your printer.cfg is easily editable. And is a cheap way to turn your Mk3s/+ into a Mk3.5 for easily under $100US-- depending on what recommended RPi you decide to buy. Accelerometers are dirt cheap. I bought the expensive recommended $20 KUSBA plus a $5 data cable because I didn’t have one. The RPi 4b I already had for years.

2. It gives the Mk3s a 32bit controller thanks to a Raspberry Pi 4b running the printer now rather than the 8bit RamBo factory board. The RamBo merely relays the moves that klipper tells it to do.

3. I can now use an inexpensive accelerometer to setup input shaping very easily.

4. This gives the printer the ability to print faster without a drop in quality. I went from printing 45mm²/sec to 80mm²/sec and accelerations from 1200mm² to 4000mm².

5. This particular conversion is easily reversible in about 10 minutes if I should ever decide I don’t like it. It’s merely a matter of re-flashing the firmware to the RamBo. And reinstalling OctoPrint to the RPi.

6. This does not mean it’s now as fast as my mini. It’s not and never will be. But it’s far better than it was. For example, in this run of parts, when printing the same part, (identical test connector), with the same filament, the print times are within 10 minutes of each other. The only difference being the Mk3s has a .60mm nozzle installed and the Mini has a .40mm Nozzle installed. I run a .40mm nozzle in the Mini because Bambu optimizes it’s printers specifically for that size. And there is no difference in tolerances and quality. The parts are perfectly interchangeable.

If you are interested, this is the git hub I used to klipperize my Mk3s

The price. It’s going to be noticeably more expensive and probably more locked down than the X1C. You will be able to buy a Qidi IDEX system or Prusa Core 1 with their MMU for less money.

I have heard that there will be a laser and vinyl cutter attachments for the H2D also. That won’t end well for Bambu. The added complexity and rather useless power and size constraints for those add ons will make them a nearly useless cost for users and support headaches for Bambu.

Though I do give Bambu large credit for using the A1 series hot ends. They are inexpensive and fast to change out, (provided they don’t stick to the extruder making them a pain to remove).

Unless there is something they aren’t telling yet, I don’t see this as a popular money making product for Bambu.

It’s a part for a corded snow thrower I use on my deck. It allows the the handle to be quickly and easily folded for compact storage. I would post a picture of it, but it’s currently 4F/-16C outside and I’m not walking to the shop. Besides, I would need to disassemble the handle to show the parts. So, Y’all will need to settle for a picture of the model.

Openscad is fine for pretty basic one item things. It’s not so good for complex designs like the model steam engines I sometimes amuse myself with. And it’s sure not capable in a commercial setting.

But if you enjoy openscad and writing code, more power to you and enjoy what you are doing with it!

I wish him good luck in this endeavor.