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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 23rd, 2024

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  • Not all places have cold water during summer (did the greedy water company already run a heat exchange there?)

    This would work but don’t use a conventional central heating radiator system: moisture would condense on the radiators and pipes, potentially causing wet floors and walls, and eventually mold. A radiator that deals with moisture well is an indoor AC unit, plus it has a fan, thermostat and remote control, and presumably they’re cheap to get when the more complicated outdoor unit fails. Just pump water through the coolant pipes! The water mains pressure is probably enough. (Don’t get an overly smart one or it will complain about lack of communication with the outdoor unit. Or hack it if you’re good at that.)

    Alternatively, an air-to-water heat exchanger (heat pump whose condenser is submerged and evaporator is a conventional indoor AC unit) is way more practical. With cold water, it will use very little electricity and has all the convenience of AC. The output water can be used as preheated feed into your boiler.






  • I know what hertz is, I’m en electrotechnician. The display’s refresh rate is measured in hertz, and has to be at least 40 Hz or you suffer from headaches and some from photosensitive epilepsy. (edit: only applies if the screen goes black between refreshes, which I just learned OLED, unlike CRTs, doesn’t.) Ideally 100 Hz or more. But the image (frames per second) does not have to change that often. For example, movies are 24 fps but 35mm film projectors are 72 Hz: they flash each frame 3x before advancing (using a three-blade shutter) because 24 Hz is seizure-inducing but using a unique picture for each refresh (72 fps) is expensive. Similarly, your OLED TV is 144 Hz when gaming at 144 fps (if you can afford that), when watching a 60fps gaming video or 24fps movie: the screen controller works the same all the time but the picture it’s fed changes more or less frequently.

    If an OLED screen refreshed at 1 Hz, you’d see a line going down the display edit: I learned about TFT OLEDs which don’t do that. So it never goes below 60 Hz. However, the phone can reduce animation fps when the CPU can’t keep up or to save battery. 1 fps is extremely choppy though, I don’t know where OP got that. I did once use a phone capped to that framerate (via adbcontrol pre-Lollipop where the screenshot is transmitted over USB) and it was awfully non-responsive.



  • So do CDs. 💿 If you have a player with a see-through lid, you can see the disc rotate around 2.5 times slower on the last track of a near-74/80-minute disc as opposed to the first. This might not apply with modern (2000+) and/or portable ones with cache (ESP) − MP3 support is a good clue it has the advanced electronics for that. And yes, CDs’ track starts at the center to enable short-play, smaller disks of any diameter between 5 and 12 cm (although slot-loading players only have cutouts for the two standard sizes).

    Players regulate the motor speed based on the data clock (and burners too: there is a pre-recorded “timing” signal even on blank CD-Rs) so technically, a constant-angular-velocity CD could be pressed and played on most players, just with no real benefits. The extra linear velocity at the edge would require increased laser power (or less than 1x speed) when burning, and vinyl killers (in the unlikely case they ever make a CD one) won’t keep up.





  • Look up how a CRT works. As the beam draws picture fields, it moves downwards across the screen driven by a 59.94Hz sawtooth wave. The generator of this sawtooth wave needs to be synced to the vertical blanking interval between fields. “Vertical hold” refers to how long the oscillator waits before the window in which it can accept the sync pulse. Too soon and the picture scrolls down, too late and the picture scrolls up (however, slightly too late, as long as 1/59.94 seconds is still within the window, is fine and the picture can stabilize after one slow scroll up).

    Seeing almost two copies of the picture means V-Hold is very late and the vertical oscillator is running way too slow. About 30-40 Hz, very flickery to the person taking the picture!